One early morning, I woke up to a loud
ringtone of my old phone which snatched away my peaceful morning sleep and a
beautiful dream. With my eyes still drooping, I picked up the call. “Aren’t you
going? Today is Namgang”, one of my friends toned busy at the other end.
“I am still in bed you may like to proceed please.” And the time was 5 in the
morning. Outside, it was raining and I did not realise I fell back asleep.
By the time my mother woke me up, it was
7 o’clock. She said that I must go attend the Ûlha Soelkha (ritual to appease
the village’s protecting deity). Suddenly, her words prompted me as I was
waiting for the moment since a month ago. As same as other village folks were
looking forward, I have been waiting for this moment to come, so I did not want
to miss a chance. I dialled my friend to know that they were already halfway
through pitching a tent to guard them from the heavy downpour. I could see my
mom busy packing a bangchung of rice a palang of bangchang
and ara each. Outside, my dad, with the worn-out umbrella over him, was busy
gathering a bundle each of the varieties of vegetable from his kitchen garden.
After a quick breakfast, we headed to the spot. I escorted my grandpa, who
murmured amidst the raindrops and our feet splashing against the pool of
rainwater on our way.
As we moved in, I requested my
grandfather, one of the living historians of the village, to narrate me on the
significance of the ritual, at least from the layman’s view. There he goes.
The ritual is called, Û-lha-soel. This
tradition of offering takes place specifically on 30th day of the 3rd
month of the Bhutanese calendar. Of course, he is not sure of why it is being
observed on that particular day as much as he does not know when the tradition
started. But one thing he is certain that the day used to be observed since he
was a young boy which meant that it was in vogue from generations and time
immemorial.
At one point in time long ago, the village befell a series of agonising ill-luck that peoples’ crops were damaged by extreme weather conditions and their herds fell prey to wild canines. People were at the verge of getting succumbed to hunger that year and they had to face the harsh reality of life. Just to gather people’s hope for a better life tomorrow, village’s elders built a stupa where sickly villagers could visit and pray for solace. And to the miracle of their prayers, the ill-fated problems disappeared and never happened thereon.
That is how the tradition of making an offering of various vegetable spores and cattle furs during this ritual
originated. That day on, they made a point that the day was observed with
everyone in the village coming together and saying prayers for their welfare.
However, like my grandfather, elder people expressed their worries that this tradition
would go on unobserved during the times of the future generations and the
ill-fated day would befall them.
By the time we reached the spot, the rain already receded to drizzles, and with a wink of the morning sun rays through the clouds, brought a beautiful rainbow. My curiosity to watch them perform grew even more. But I could not convince my eyes that the ritual was not hosted in the village Lhakhang. Everyone was busy in their own ways near the old stupa of about three centuries old. A few men were into preparing the traditional formalities. I observed that a few of them were inquiring elders what the sequence each torma (ritual cake) should be placed. On both sides of the improvised alter, antique textiles and swords were hung. On the foreside, a series of tormas were lined up. The food people brought were laid down on the banana leaves. On the base of the chorten, bundles of grains and vegetable saplings were placed. This was the first time in my entire life, I attended the ritual which at first appeared bizarre to me but was amazed by how the belief system made everyone’s mind think in unison.
As people started to prostrate and pray,
I bothered my grandfather again. “I will no longer raise cattle and do farming
in future. There is no reason to keep this tradition alive.” He responded to me
with a sarcastic laugh at first. “Every person has their own god by the virtue
of their birth (skya lha) who guides and protects them. Similarly, almost all
villages have their protective deities.” He cited a few popular names of the
deities for my understanding. “They would never be away from us irrespective of
places and work we do. If we don’t know these things, trying staying carefree,
mix up everything, at some point in our life, we would face their wrathfulness”,
He explained with some sense of indifference in his mind.
A chill sensation ran through my spines.
Imaginations of my life being away from the village flashed in my eyes. It will
be certainly difficult for people of my age to attend this type of important
ritual in future. If at all what he told me was certain to happen, this was
nothing more than a generations’ curse to the modernity, after all, modernity
also involves being logical and rationale. If logic has to overrule the
traditions that are based on belief and hearsay, elder people’s fear of losing
the tradition is not far away.
However, if today’s youth have to uphold
all traditions some of which are irrational and against what modern education
and science have to teach, it would be nothing more than fighting a modern war
with ice-age weapons. Traditions such as this call for more research and
logical settings in our mind to abridge both the lives of classical elder and
contemporary youth. Can we afford to practise the tradition without ascertaining
why and how part? Can we dwell on why and how and leave the tradition
unattended? Are the youths not pushed to an island of mixed mindset? I have
more questions than answers.
With these questions clouded in my mind, I rushed back home to write about this and share with others who probably would have answers to my questions. If not answers, you certainly would have these questions in your mind. By writing this short article, I can only hope that you all ask your parents and elder people in your village about your Kelha, Yuelha and why must you uphold the tradition. Finding the time and asking them about anything could happen today, or never. I wish you luck in your pursuit of writing similar stories and more.

